The Gibbon Experience in Laos was a fantastic success. We did not see the elusive gibbon for which it is named, but we lived for three days and two nights in arboreal bliss.
The Gibbon Experience is the first tour group that we have taken. In short, it involves riding in a pickup truck from Huay Xai on the Mekong River to a protected forest some two hours inland, then a combination of hiking and zip lining into the protected area. Once inside, we lived in open-air treehouses high above the ground and made excursions around the area to attempt to view gibbons, and to enjoy the extensive zip lines.
So simple, but such a lot to experience. What touched my heart most were the guides. The Gibbon Experience has a mission to preserve the gibbons’ habitat and part of that mission was hiring poachers, paying them more than they were making at their poaching, and teaching them English and other skills (such as zip lining!). Our guide was an excellent instructor and very careful to keep an eye out for us and our safety. And as he found the gibbons by their calls and brought us close to them, treading almost silently, I gathered that he was probably a good hunter. Alas, we were a group of heavy-footed Anglophones following him, and only some of us saw the gibbons before they fled from our cracks and rustles.
The Guide told me and the Professor, when we asked, that he used to hunt monkeys to sell for food to other Laotians. Now, with his greater income, he is putting two of his brothers and two of his sisters through school, which is apparently not free here. Another guide, who we met at a restaurant and guesthouse which benefits local women, told us that he was doing the same – in hopes that his educated brother will then put him through school.
The second delightful thing about the experience was that we made friends! We had a lot of time to get to know the Blythe Spirit from Holland, the Newly Engaged Cuties from England, and the Spiffy Athletes from New Zealand, as we were all sharing a treehouse. We also got to know the Newlywed Members of the Tribe from Australia, two students also from Oz, two medical students from Israel, a teacher and his son from Hong Kong, and an Australian/Singaporean duo. They all were interesting, thoughtful, soulful people who became dear to us. We felt so lucky to have been shut up in the jungle with such great folks!
Our treehouse was a marvel, both beautiful and functional, with a running cold shower, a sink, a toilet, clean water for drinking and bathing and tapestry tents to cover our mattresses, protecting us from both insects and their bat predators. We were brought nourishing meals of rice, vegetables, beans and a little meat, along with fresh strong coffee with condensed milk (our new drug of choice), tea, fruit and peanuts and peanut brittle. We had brought our own extra sweets and drinks. Here you can see our guide zip lining away from the treehouse.
The zip lining brought me a peaceful feeling, as I sped above mist-tracked forest canyons while dangling from a giant cable in a harness. Words don’t really do it justice, and I hope we can post video at some point on our excursion- we have failed thus far to find an Internet cafe that can handle the load. One pointer, if you ever try it: go fast! You can always brake later.
Professor: Here’s a video of one particularly fun zip line. Unfortunately it’s sideways and we don’t have editing software. So turn your head to the right? It takes a few moments to start as The Private Eye launches.
Finally, let me say that the forest itself was so beautiful, to see and to smell and to hear. The soundscapes at the dawn of our first day were utterly haunting, full of bird calls and gibbon song and insect drone. We seven in our treehouse spent a good portion of our first night in the bathroom (it had the best sky view), gazing at the stars through the giant branches of our host tree. Some of us hiked an eastern ridge at the dawn of our last day, and watched the sun rise through the bamboo. I took an afternoon nap in the highest part of our treehouse, snoozing in the soft breezes.
I absolutely felt we got our money’s worth. Because I am sure prospective travelers are reading this, though, I’ll tack on a few you-should-knows. It is the jungle: there are rats, mice, snakes and bugs. None of them really bothered us much, but we are adventuresome people and they might bother others. The guides leave you alone in your treehouses at night and there is no phone, so I would not go there were I a likely candidate for a medical emergency; the nearest hospital is hours away, and the nearest good hospital is in Thailand. I would also avoid it if I were physically unfit: we did the less hiking intensive of the three day experiences, and it was still a good deal of very strenuous long uphill climbing.
I am writing this post on while floating down the Mekong River in a slow boat. I will catch you next time in Luang Prabang!
– The Private Eye
The Professor and the Private Eye: Adventures Abroad 